The Big Bend of Texas (07-25-21)

 
Paul and I love this area of Texas, and have been here several times. Big Bend is one of my favorite national parks- but this time, we came for something else- Big Bend Ranch State Park.  We chose to stay at a resort that is closer to the state park than the national park. It has a pool, fitness room and restaurants. I guess part of the reason I have been choosing resort type places is because its so hot outside, we need things to do besides hike.

Anyway, our first morning there it was our intent to drive into the state park and do a hike. As we sat drinking our coffee, I punched it in Google maps and discovered its a 2 hour drive- mostly down a dirt road. Well, we had lingered too long over our coffee, so we didn’t make it to the park that day. I had forgotten that to get anywhere in this area is at least an hour and a half drive. We elected to leave very early the next day and make a whole day of it.

Instead, we took a short ride along the Rio Grande, enjoying the scenery.

Up early the next day we headed into the park. One of the things I noticed on the bone jarring ride down the dirt road, was a veritable forest of Ocotillo.  We are used to seeing one or two of these plants, but this was thousands of them. And there were “babies”, which we rarely see anywhere.

We stopped at the ranger station to get the scoop on what we should do, and she recommended Cinco Tinajas Trail, about 3 miles round trip.

A tinaja is basically a natural basin with water in it. We hiked as far along as we could without having to go IN the water, then headed up the side, to look down into the chasm.

Further along the trail we came upon a red tailed hawk.  It was really neat to see the mockingbird dove bomb the hawk repeatedly. He must have been near the bird’s nest but he sure didn’t seem to take the attack seriously.

He didn’t seem to care about us much either, showing his apparent disdain by ignoring us.

It was already getting quite warm by the time we finished that hike, so we elected to pass on the second one we were going to do, and just drove around the park, having decided that Big Bend Ranch State Park would be a One Day and Done kind of park.

On the way back to the rig, we stopped to do a short hike into Closed Canyon.  The walls of the canyon are so high, its partly in the shade, making it cooler in the canyon. However, it was 102* outside, and one of us thought that was a little too warm to venture very far into the canyon, so we took a peek, and headed back out.

Being gluttons for punishment, we were up and out the door by daybreak the next day, hiking up a hill adjacent to the RV park.

It was 4 miles round trip, giving us views of the surrounding area and the Rio Grande.

We were done early enough to spend some time in the pool before heading to nearby Study Butte for the 4th of July parade.

On the drive there, it became increasingly clear that there wasn’t going to be a parade, but we still had a great time watching the storm come through.

Not to be deterred, the following day we once again headed to Study Butte for the postponed parade, but it was not meant to be…another storm came through the area, and the parade was canceled again.

This time we skedaddled fast enough to make it to our favorite restaurant just ahead of the crowd.  Starlight Theater has excellent food, and live entertainment most nights. In fact, we ate here twice on this trip.

Our final day in the area we headed to Big Bend National Park.  Before we went, I checked a hiking map to see if there were any interesting trails that we hadn’t hiked yet. I didn’t think there were, and I was right.  We have hiked most of the trails that are under 15 miles…some of them 2-3 times. So, I picked my favorite trail, and that’s what we hiked- Lost Mine Trail.

On our way in to the park we were kind of happy to see the cloud cover hanging over the Chisos Basin.  Clouds would make the hike much cooler….as long as they cleared before we got to the top.

Luckily they did, and we were able to enjoy the fantastic views at the summit.

Once our stay at Big Bend was over, we headed to El Paso to see Paul’s mom.

Big Bend Adventures (12-04-14)

Since no one can hike all day, every day, we looked for other adventurous outings to fill our time.

Eating may not seem adventurous, but dinner at the Starlight Theater is always a fun time.  Some day we’ll branch out and try other restaurants, but at this point, we've always headed here. 

The food is excellent, there is usually live music, they have $2.00 Margaritas, and you can’t beat the sunset view from their front porch.

We thoroughly enjoyed the original songs by Moses Martinez, touting the benefits of living in Terlingua, Texas.  As quirky and “off the grid” as the town is, you never have to walk anywhere in Terlingua.  There is no one who won’t stop to give you a ride. 

And, of course, the town is 90 miles from the nearest traffic light.

The hot springs are always a welcome destination after spending several days on the hiking trail.  It’s on the opposite side of the park, so we combined it with another trip. 

Cooler weather would have kept us hanging out in the 103* water longer, but we still enjoyed sitting and watching the Rio Grande River flow by.

We have had two major outings, and they were both adventures that we’ve never been able to do before:

Rio Grande Rafting Trip

Rafting down the Rio Grande is something that Paul and I have always wanted to do, but there is hardly ever enough water in the river for this particular adventure. 

With all the recent rain, the river is flowing pretty strong.  Paul and I were the only takers for this trip, so we spent the day on the water with just our guide, John Parker.

The river led us through Colorado Canyon, where the “rapids” were fun but barely worthy of their name.

Our lunch was over the top, with enough food to feed a much larger crowd- and it was all set up on a table, complete with tablecloth and paper plates.

I think the best part was our conversations with John.

  It was interesting to hear about the town and the area from the perspective of someone who decided years ago to make it his home.  John came for the hot springs, and loved the town so much he bought property 16 years ago, for a mere $100 an acre.

We learned so much from John that in the days following our river trip, our conversations were peppered with the phrase "John said"...

As for our other adventure- well, this post is getting to be too long, so I will give our other trip it’s own post..

Desert Hikes (12-02-14)

The main attraction at Big Bend National Park is the hiking- so that’s mostly what we've been doing while we've been here in Terlingua.

Ok, well maybe that’s not quite all we've been doing.  We did have a bourbon tasting session, courtesy of Dave….

I told them to act drunk and this is the best they could do.  At least they tried! 

Anyway, as you can see, we are having quite the fun time here.  And we have gone on quite a few hikes.





What’s nice about having the six of us here is that we can do things together, or we can go off on our own.  We did a little of each over the past week:

Nancy hiked with Paul and I to the Mule Ears Lookout.

 

It was about a 4 mile hike, and we agreed that the mule ears looked more like an eagle or Batman or something.

We all hiked to the Red Buffalo. This is a short hike, about a mile and a half, but there is no trail, so you have to find your own way through the desert.

I had the breadcrumb trail on my GPS from the last time we hiked this, but it didn’t help much because we didn’t really know where we were going last time- we meandered a lot.  This time we found it a lot faster.

So, “it” is a  pictograph of a buffalo.  The rangers don’t want hoards of people flocking to it, so there is no trail and it isn’t on any maps. Paul and I found out about it from someone who volunteered at the park, and we have hiked to it several times.



On the way back we saw two rabbits- one ran away pretty quickly, but this one decided to pretend he was a rock and just hoped we would go away.





Paul and I hiked the 5 mile long Chimney trail by ourselves.  The trail leads across the desert to some rock formations called the chimneys.

The canyon in the background is Santa Elena Canyon.

The rocks were fun to climb on, but they are also interesting because they contain Indian rock art and some ruins left by the previous Indian inhabitants.



 
We all took the scenic drive over to Santa Elena Canyon.  There is so much more water in the river right now, it looks like a different place!




Some of us had an impromptu contest to see who could throw a rock into Mexico (at least halfway across the river). Its a lot further than you think (that’s my story, anyway) and some of our rocks barely made it into the water at all- Paul is the only one who participated who actually threw a rock into Mexico.

This canyon is gorgeous and always makes for a good hike.

Julie and Mike hiked with Paul and I to the Burro Mesa Pour Off.  Basically, this is the path that water would take if it rained, so it’s not a trail you’d do in bad weather. I forgot my camera so we had to take pictures with Paul’s phone.

 


It was a fun, 4 mile trail, but had a fair amount of rock scrambling, so with Julie’s bum knee, she and Mike elected not to go all the way to the end.

Right behind Paul is the Pour Off- the drop just beyond where he is standing is about 130 feet to the desert below.

 

We have also hiked the lower Burro Mesa trail and have seen the pour off from the bottom. Here’s a picture of Paul from 2009 when we hiked the lower portion.





Random Question: Why did the tarantula cross the road?

Study Butte-Terlingua, TX (2-18-11)





Dog Canyon

 Big Bend National Park is one of those huge parks that takes hours to drive through.  No matter where you stay, you're going to have to drive quite a distance to get wherever you want to be in the park.  We decided to stay in Study Butte, on the western side of the park, just like we did last time, since it's closer to the hiking we want to do.
    Our first day here we hiked a trail that Paul had wanted to hike last time we were here, but we ran out of time.  So we hiked Dog Canyon and Devil's Den, about 8 miles, in 90 degree temperatures.  I was pretty tired when when we were done, but it felt great to get moving again.  We met  and chatted with several people along the trail, including a group on horseback.




 



entrance to Cattail Canyon



  We spent some time putting together a gameplan for while we're here because we definately have things we want to do and some of them are all day adventures.  Paul had heard about a trail that isn't on any of the maps and isn't in the trail guides, so we spoke to one of the rangers to find out more about it.  Its called Cattail Falls trail. Its not on the maps because it has a very fragile ecosystem, with plants growing there that don't grow anywhere else in the world.  We decided to hike it yesterday because its a relatively short trail and we wanted a relatively easy day.  Unfortunately, the road to the trailhead wasn't wide enough for our dually truck, so we had to walk an extra 2 miles just to get to the trailhead.  That made the total hike about 7 miles long.   Not bad, but not an "easy" day either.  The waterfall was worth it though!!   After hiking in the sun for a few miles, we arrived in an alcove that was shaded by trees and the mountain.  Inside there was a small springfed waterfall. There wasn't much water flow, but here in the desert its amazing to see any water!  We sat in the coolness and enjoyed our lunch before starting the trek back.